This easy to build and unique Crate Storage Coffee Table and stools are perfect pieces to get organized in living areas. You can build a stylish coffee table with storage, use crates instead of building pesky drawers. The crates for this table are 18″ long x 12 1/2″ wide x 9 1/2″ tall, very roomy.
The crates easily pull out to organize kid activity supplies, blankets, magazines, etc. There are 2 crates on each side. The table is on semi-hidden casters, so the table can move easily while vacuuming, etc.
The stools offer extra seating and portable storage space. The cushioned seats flip up to offer even more storage. I kind of love that fabric, I found it at JoAnn’s in the outdoor fabric section. The large stools are perfect for my 5 year old, and the small stools are perfect for my 2 year old. They think that they are so much fun.
- 4 – large crates (18″ long x 12 1/2″ wide x 9 1/2″ tall)
- 2 – 2” x 8” x 8’ wood
- 1 – 2” x 4” x 8’ wood
- 2 – 1” x 4” x 8’ wood
- 3 – 1” x 3” x 8’ wood
- 1 – ½” sheet of plywood
- 3 – ¼” x 2 ½” x 4’ poplar
- Paint/Stain/Top Coat
- Wood glue
- 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
- 2 ½” pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼” brad nails
- Sand paper
- 5/8” brad nails
- 4 – swivel casters (optional)
- 4 – cup cabinet pull (optional)
- 64 – Upholstery nails (optional)
- 8’ plastic hanger strap (optional)
Note: I have found that the cheap 1×4’s, 1×3’s and 1×2’s that I use are rarely straight and the width varies. I like to buy the 1×4’s ($1.98) and rip them down to the correct width, then I have a straight edge to work with and the boards are at the exact width I want them to be.
For this table I ripped down 1 of the 1×4’s into 2 boards 1 1/2″ wide and cut the face frame H pieces. Then the remaining pieces ripped to 1 1/4″ for the drawer guides (plus a little of the second 1×4).
Cut the face frame pieces. On the backside of each of the 8 – 18 ¼” face frame H pieces, drill 2 pocket holes on each end. On 4 of the boards drill a vertical pocket hole to attach the top later. On each of the 6 – 14 ¼” face frame V pieces measure and mark 11 ¼” from the top. Make 2 face frames, 2 – 18 ¼” pieces at the top and 2 at 11 ¼”. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” screws to join the wood together.
Cut the side panels and side accent pieces. Use wood glue and 5/8” brad nails, add the side accent pieces around the side panels.
Drill 3 pocket holes on the backside of each side panel end. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” screws to attach one side of the panel to the face frame. Make the tops flush and the front of the side panel flush with the end of the face frame. Repeat for the other side panel.
Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in the ends of each 2×4 bottom support. Drill a couple pocket holes facing the sides on 2 of the bottom supports. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” screws to attach bottom supports to the face frame and side panels. Center the middle support with the face frame center vertical piece. Make the 2×4 flush with the face frame opening so the crates will slide smoothly.
Attach the other face frame to the side panels and bottom supports with wood glue and 1 ¼” screws.
Optional – I decided to add swivel casters to my table so I could easily move it while vacuuming, etc. The casters are not necessary, but will be mostly hidden by the molding. Attach swivel casters to the bottom support. Rotate caster around and make sure there is plenty of room for the molding later.
On the inside of the table, measure and mark on the supports from the inside face frame 11 ¾”. Dryfit center divider and trim as necessary. Add 3 or so pocket holes in the center divider to attach it to the bottom supports. Use 1 ¼” screws to attach the center divider to the supports. The center divider is the backstop for the crates.
Attach 2 -2” drawer guides with wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails, these should be flush with the center face frame piece and 19 ½” from the side panels. Attach 4 – 1 ¼” drawer guides with wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails flush with the side openings of the face frame. The drawer guides help the crate slide in straight.
From the bottom of the face frame opening, measure and mark 1” in a few places. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails to attach the 42 ½” molding pieces to the front and back of the table. The molding edges should be flush with the sides, trim as necessary. Attach the 27 ¼” molding pieces flush with the other molding pieces.
Dry fit the large crates and make sure they fit nicely through the face frame and on the bottom supports. Make any adjustments as necessary. (Note: I haven’t installed the molding yet in this picture) Sand, sand, sand finishing with 120-150 grit. Paint or stain the table as desired. I primed the table and crates and painted them with white latex paint.
Cut the top pieces, 4 @ 30 ¾” and 2 @ 28”. When using 2 x 8 for tops, I like to trim down the sides with a table saw to get a straight edge. The widths of the 2×8’s are trimmed down to 7” wide.
Drill pocket holes for 1 ½” material in the top boards, about 5 holes along each joint, 1 on each end. Use wood glue and 2 ½” screws to join the top pieces together. Sand, sand, sand finishing with 120-150 grit. Paint or stain the top as desired. I used wood conditioner then applied 2 coats of Varathane Carrington stain and finished with Varathane satin polyurethane.
Once all of the pieces dried I attached the table to the top with 1 ¼” screws. To help with the sliding motion and save the paint surfaces, I stapled plastic hanger strap on the bottom supports (optional). Cut the plastic hanger strap flush withthe front and if needed hammer down the staples.
I added a cup cabinet pull to each crate and decorated the crates by hammering upholstery nails into each slat.
This tutorial is also on Ryobi Nation.
Good Luck and Happy Organizing & Building!
Crate Stools: Paint or stain the crates as you like. Cut the top according to the cut list, paint or stain if desired. Cut 2” foam to the same size as the top. Cut batting about 6” longer and wider than the top dimensions. Line up the 2 hinges with a short edge of the top, predrill holes for the hinge screws.
Wrap the batting around the foam and top, tack into place with staples. Trim the batting and the corners, so it’s not too bulky.
Wrap cloth material around the foam and top, fold a small hem on the material and staple into place. Fold the corners and tightly finish stapling.
Locate predrilled holes and attach 2 hinges to stool tops. Place the top on the crate and mark and predrill the holes for the hinges to attach to the crate. Attach the hinges to the crate. Optional – attach 4 swivel casters to the bottom corners of the crate.
Original article and pictures take http://www.hertoolbelt.com/crate-storage-coffee-table-stools/ site